Patagonia Cardiff Board Swap

Patagonia Cardiff will be hosting their annual Board Swap (a surf community used surfboard event) on Saturday, May 2ndfrom 8am to noon.  

If you are interested in selling boards at this event please shoot an email  to (with your full name and number of boards you want to bring, up to 5 board max) or give him a ring at the shop (760) 634-9886, or stop by and we will get you on our seller list. Space is limited for this free event and they do not take a cut or commission from any sales!

Lost Bolts.

With 1300 unread emails occasionally some VERY important messages slip through unread. 

"Hello, I have a surfboard that I am thinking of selling and don't know how much to ask for it. I am attaching some pics for you to see. I have had the board in my house for quite some time.  Would you be interested in adding it to your collection? Please let me know what you think.  Thank u Nancy"

- Pigment coat Gerry Lopez pintail.........Don't know how much to ask for it........

I don't even know where this one came from, but geez its a nice one too.

Kailua Gold

Simon wrote to say-

G'day, I found this board recently in a junk heap. 
Once I cleaned of the dust and wax this is what I found ....GOLD. 
All I know is that it is a 1979 model made in Kailua at the old factory it is 6'2" but very similar to the one on your blog so I thought you might be interested in seeing it. 

The unassuming pioneer, Gary Green

There are some sights, some smells, some pieces of music that immediately take you back to a time and a place.
Seeing the three elements of a black arched crescent spray down the rails of a force 9 thruster with a Billabong logo under the glass took me back to 1985 and troubled times of anti hero Gary Green, the surfer who like me, just wanted to have fun.

Did he make the cover of Surfer - Yes.
Was he ranked number 6 in the world- Yes.

Will I fix it up - probably.
Will I surf it - maybe.
Will I keep it for the sake of history - definitely.

Black rock before the Boggie boards

Did he want to surf pro comps in inland swimming pools - no.

 So he quit the tour and became the worlds first professional free surfer.
The fact he made that happen, made that a possibility, made that a real thing, at the end of a long and difficult road, if what makes this board special to me.

KC twin fins

Newport's Greg Trotter's surfboard and Gary Green's surfing made a deep impression on me as a grom through the pages of Surfing World.

I feel privileged to be the custodian of this original late 70's twin.

Here are two more fine examples that I've crossed paths with recently.
His love of and commitment to the rainbow laminate fin is truly to be commended!

1983 US made McCoy Lazor Zap

No serious surfboard collection is complete without a Geoff McCoy designed Lazor Zap. One of the most influential and controversial of all of the designs of the innovation period. Yet this must have design is not easy to ride, in Geoff's own words is " To take advantage of the Lazor Zap design you need to be a high level surfer". 
Geoff says "In 1978 I began a design revolution with the introduction of my Lazor Zap concept; with its wide area, thick tail and extremely pointed low resistant nose area this Lazor Zap design revolutionised surfboard design." Indeed Simon Anderson credits Geoff as one of the 5 fathers of the 'Thurster' as he incorporated the 'no nose' and pulled back mid point into his 3 fin design.

This particular example is a US version of the design shaped by Tom Watson in Cosa Mesa in August 1983. 
Beautiful in its simplicity and decoration.

I'm pleased to share with the before and after pics of my US made zap as the original stickers tell as much of a story as does the board.

I was fascinated to read the following statement on the Mc Coy website by Goeff McCoy about the star fin made famous by Cheyne Horan and synonymous with the Lazor zap design- 
"McCoy Ben Lexcen Fin Disclaimer:
This statement is to inform people that the Ben Lexon designed keel fin is in no way my fin of choice. I do not recommend it to be used in any of my Geoff McCoy designed surfboards.
Never have I had any involvement with the design and I certainly have not and do not recommend its use in a surfboard.
The original Lazor Zap fin is a refined Dolphin fin design. In recent years I have developed and recommend my Gull Wing fin.
My Gull Wing has been designed specifically for my wide thick tail single fin boards and has proven itself to be extremely efficient and a very reliable performer in a wide range of wave sizes and conditions.."