I had a few days off and was thinking how I'd love to go to Bali, but I just didn't have the time or the funds. So I decided to just have a 'Bali holiday' at home.
I'd just do all the things I like doing in Bali, in OZ.
I made my plans clear to the family, that I'd be unreachable for a few days, jumped in the 'Jimny' and I was off.
Things that define a Bali surf trip that I recreated at home.
1) 3 surfs a day.- With a nice south swell running that wasn't hard to organize at home.
2) Banana pancakes for breakfast.- Coldale cafe do an excellent banana yogurt dish.
3) 1 massage a day for the length of the holiday.- A touch of Thai in Thiroul is a cheaper massage than the Warungs on the Bukit if you take out the airfare. Ask for Jenny.
4) Break a board.- Well, I dinged one.
5) Go back to work with an infected wound.- That was easier to do than you would think.
6) Have a nasi goreng and chicken sate for lunch.- Done and done.
7) Drive around drinking several long necks of Bintang, looking at the surf at sunset.- No problem.
8) Go into town, buy a 'copi watch' that doesn't work, spend all night in a crappy bar drinking arrack cocktails, get hit on by a bunch of sun burnt English girls on a hen's night. Get in a fight with a belligerent drunk from Perth, lose my wallet and one of my thongs, walk home, with one thong, at dawn and be sick out the front.- This part I decided to skip.
South Sydney Bukit Peninsula
I dedicated my 'staycation' to surfing my new / old Steve Griffiths shaped 6'2" single fly swallow tail twin fin.
The unique thing about Steve's shapes from this era are the very low rails. There's lots of foam through the middle but instead of an even soft rail he finishes the board with a tight radius on the bottom and then a long soft curve blending up to the deck.
Steve Griffiths at Kurnell Point, pic from Cronulla Surf Museum
Sandon chicken' is one of my favorite Indo dishes.
So I renamed this place 'Sandon Chicken Point' for the duration.
One of the reasons I think you surf so well in Bali, in addition to the great waves, is you have the opportunity to get regular massages between surfs.
I adopted this policy at home and had 3 massages in 3 days to keep me relaxed and flexible.
Bali breakfast in Bulli
On day 2 of my holiday the clouds came over but the waves got bigger.
Nothing beats glass on fins.
Less crowds than Ulu.
Instagram @sandondan joined me and was ripping it up
Using the pole cam is not as easy as it looks. I hope you like it.
Day 1 of my holiday. No jet lag. No arrival tax.
Aaron seems to always be on holiday.
Aaron Hughes from the water by me.
and from the land by Clarrie at www.sandonpointphotos.com
The paddle in through 'the cave'
ad for Emerald from Cronulla surf museum with what looks like this board in the bottom right.
Nice Emerald single fly swallow tail 1.
Nice Emerald single fly swallow tail 2.
the author at work
Green Cathedral Surf Swap. December Saturday the 14th. Wollongong City Art Gallery.
Call to surf swap exhibitors-
Please confirm your attendance so we can assign your stall number.
Please feel free to share to above digital flyer for your blog / website / facebook page.
Limited edition tee shirts with artwork by Simon Perini available on the day.
The Green Cathedral The Boardroom exhibition.
A handsome quiver of boards, and local surf memorabilia from deep within the garages of local shapers and collectors. Surfing in the Illawarra with Geoff Cater Saturday 14 December, 2 - 3pm Lecture by local legendary surfcyclopaedic board collector and creator of surfresearch.com on the Illawarra’s surf history. Free, all welcome.
I dug deep into the shed to pull out 2 of my most prized pieces of innovation surfboard design from the coal coast to add to the exhibition. 2 x Laurrie Byrne shaped extreme 'clinker' bottom twin fins.
The plain one with Town and Country decals was shaped for Hawaiian Vince Klyne to use in the 1982 2SM surf about.
I love twin fins, I love channel bottoms, I love Lightning Bolts, I love vintage Hawaiian surfboards.
So I was pretty phyched to get my Maui made late 70's Beckmeier Bolt in the water.
The first opportunity to get him wet came down the coast at this well know hollow beach break.
Nice punchy beach break.
I always enjoy the adventure of surfing this spot that requires a paddle across this peaceful lagoon.
The most remarkable feature of this board is the thinness through the tail that allows great penetration and hold in powerful little waves while retaining the speed and looseness of of the swallow tail twin fin.
Aaron, over the falls
This shot blocked by the zip pull on my wetsuit reminds me of the first viking explorer space module to land on Mars in the early 80's,
It was equipped with a camera and a spring loaded arm with a sensor on it designed to measure the make up of the Martian soil.
The module landed, the plastic lens cap popped off in readiness to take photos and the spring loaded arm went down and sent back, through millions of miles through space, the exact make up and chemical composition of the plastic lens cap.
The next run the green Bolt got was on a camping trip up the north coast with Gavin, another passionate vintange surfboard collector.
The fish eye lens some times works to completely flatten out a swell.
You still need a steamer in the water south of Sydney, but you don't have to go too far north to score a surf in boardies.