Deep Sea Canyon

It was kind of solid and it was a Sunday.

I knew I'd need something to deal with the current 
and I knew I'd need something to deal with the crowd.

My thoughts turned to my early 80's Rusty Presendorfer shaped 7'6" because of its length and thickness.

I started thinking about how 'Canyon' is a really good name for a San Diego surfboard label, because SD's best wave, Blacks, benefits from the deep water 'canyon', that funnels swells up out of deep water and focus them in to form a selection of peaks that can get big and hollow. 

I was thinking how the conditions at the point were similar to Blacks, big take offs, lots of water moving and terrible crowds.

sandonpointphotos.com

My mind was made up, the 7' 6" was going to get a run.

The point was better than I had had it for a long time.

The added foam got me into a few big drops and the added length helped me make some fast sections past the boat sheds.

In fact I was lucky enough to get a handful of waves from the ledge almost to the beach, right past "Obama's" (the white house that sticks right out).

It made me appreciate how stoked I get playing around with different boards and how changing it up can almost double the fun of just going surfing.

YEW!

Me and two other guys doing the run around after getting long ones from the point to the beach

Wes Laine, Ohau 1983.

I love this board, surfing on it it makes me feel like I'm Virginia's Wes Laine at Rocky Point in 1983

Even on the end section it was still overhead

Sky twin fins

Dennis sent me pics of his recently acquired Bob McTavish shaped twin fin.

A beautiful example of the genre. I am fascinated by the Air Borne label, for I too have an Air Borne twin fin but mine carries both the Sky and Air Bourne decals. I have reference to the brand in any of my early 80's Australian mags so the Air Bourne side project is a mystery to me.

These are my Sky twin fins. 

On the left we have the Air Bourne model shaped by Robert Fenech.

On the right the Bob McTavish. 

Possibly the best surfboard I've ever surfed, I've nearly surfed the poor thing to death.

You can see the delamination in the tail area caused by being danced on by a 100 kgs of over excited twin fetishist.

The Bob is onto it's fourth set of fins. The original blue glitter glass on fins were lost during a cyclone swell at Noosa. I replaced them with FCS plugs that broke out at Bondi and a second set at Windang Island.  Now I'm onto Future fin boxes that seem to be hanging in there.

I have another Robert Fench Sky. A very interesting take on the Lazor Zap.

Recently this little 5'10" Timperly Sky twinnie popped up on the Bay.

Too rich for me.

Gorgeous none the less.

Jet twin fin.

Staring at the racks, I was intriged by the interesting shape of this early 80's Tony Cerff shaped Jet twin fin from Byron bay.

The nose looked really wide and the tail realy small. I was wondering if it would go at all.

So I took it out for a paddle on a nice day at the point

I got a few out there on my back hand. 

It caught waves easy enough, but It seemed to have a bit of trouble getting going. Once it was going down the line the thing could turn on the head of a pin.

Even though it was small I still got flogged. 

Here I am climbing the rope.

Not only is it wide at the nose and narrow at the tail it was also very flat with a subtle rocker.

I do love the sight of looking down the line as the waves begins to surge an wall up. 

It feels like flying an makes you think that anything is possible.

Uncle Keith was out there there making a name for himself.

And Aaron was taking some nice drops over the boil.