It was kind of solid and it was a Sunday.
I knew I'd need something to deal with the current
and I knew I'd need something to deal with the crowd.
and I knew I'd need something to deal with the crowd.
My thoughts turned to my early 80's Rusty Presendorfer shaped 7'6" because of its length and thickness.
I started thinking about how 'Canyon' is a really good name for a San Diego surfboard label, because SD's best wave, Blacks, benefits from the deep water 'canyon', that funnels swells up out of deep water and focus them in to form a selection of peaks that can get big and hollow.
I was thinking how the conditions at the point were similar to Blacks, big take offs, lots of water moving and terrible crowds.
 |
| sandonpointphotos.com |
My mind was made up, the 7' 6" was going to get a run.
The point was better than I had had it for a long time.
The added foam got me into a few big drops and the added length helped me make some fast sections past the boat sheds.
In fact I was lucky enough to get a handful of waves from the ledge almost to the beach, right past "Obama's" (the white house that sticks right out).
It made me appreciate how stoked I get playing around with different boards and how changing it up can almost double the fun of just going surfing.
YEW!
 |
| Me and two other guys doing the run around after getting long ones from the point to the beach |
 |
| Wes Laine, Ohau 1983. |
 |
| I love this board, surfing on it it makes me feel like I'm Virginia's Wes Laine at Rocky Point in 1983 |
 |
| Even on the end section it was still overhead |
No comments:
Post a Comment