Deep Sea Canyon

It was kind of solid and it was a Sunday.
I knew I'd need something to deal with the current 
and I knew I'd need something to deal with the crowd.

My thoughts turned to my early 80's Rusty Presendorfer shaped 7'6" because of its length and thickness.

I started thinking about how 'Canyon' is a really good name for a San Diego surfboard label, because SD's best wave, Blacks, benefits from the deep water 'canyon', that funnels swells up out of deep water and focus them in to form a selection of peaks that can get big and hollow. 
I was thinking how the conditions at the point were similar to Blacks, big take offs, lots of water moving and terrible crowds.
My mind was made up, the 7' 6" was going to get a run.

The point was better than I had had it for a long time.
The added foam got me into a few big drops and the added length helped me make some fast sections past the boat sheds.

In fact I was lucky enough to get a handful of waves from the ledge almost to the beach, right past "Obama's" (the white house that sticks right out).

It made me appreciate how stoked I get playing around with different boards and how changing it up can almost double the fun of just going surfing.


Me and two other guys doing the run around after getting long ones from the point to the beach

Wes Laine, Ohau 1983.

I love this board, surfing on it it makes me feel like I'm Virginia's Wes Laine at Rocky Point in 1983

Even on the end section it was still overhead

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