Local Knowledge Part 2


I am aware that there is no such thing as the perfect surfboard. 
But this favorite of mine comes very close. 

1982, Local Knowledge from Kirra, 6'2" triple fly, swallow tail, channel bottom, twin fin by Steve 'Zorro' Godard. 
I suspect the reason this board performs so well for me, personally,  is the following combination of elements, modern outline (for its time) coupled with an even distribution of extra foam through the nose, chest and tail.
I notice that compared to todays modern foils, throughout  the 70's and 80's shapers put a fairly even amount of foam throughout the board, resulting in the 'beaked nose'  and think tail that is rarley seen today.

Generally I'm pretty terrible at making up my mind on what board to ride from my collection and where to go to surf when it is on. My indecisiveness  can lead me to take me up to half and hour umming and ahhing under the house trying to pick a board to ride on any given day depending on the conditions.
This time, I soon as I read the weather report I knew where I was going and who was coming with me! 

Fast, loose and reliable.
It was cold and dark when I arrived and the south west wind seemed to be blowing directly off the icy slopes of the snowy mountains which felt strange for this place that generally works best in summer time swells.

The chilly conditions meant I was the first out and I had half an hour of solitude and my pick of the sets as I watched the sun rise over the head land.


In the early morning light I could see some waves wrapping around the headland from the sand dunes. When I saw the sets feathering in the off shore wind and I knew I'd made the right call.



I think this is my all time favorite surf photo that I've ever taken. 

I had just pulled off the back of the wave after a nice long ride and was momentarily standing still on the surface of the water on waiting for my board to sink, as I watched the following 4 to 5 foot waves of the 3 wave set roll through unridden. 
The sky was pink, the breeze was light off shore and I was still alone in the water.



Two guys jumped off the rocks soon after, but it still took them some time to work out their positioning allowing me my pick of the sets.



video


Fast down the line


By the time I climbed out I was alone again. The sun and the breeze had come up but the sets were still coming through the empty line up.


Hard edge rails in the tail.


Long walls



Fast and lose in the pocket


Soft rails in the front with an even distribution of foam from nose to tail


Lone surfer in the fun sized pocket



We were not completley alone out there. 
There was a school of big bright orange jelly fish bobing around.


Another empty one for me to contemplate as I pull off the wave in front with tired arms and tired legs.



Like a hot knife through butter


This board loves a nice fast cut back section




Playful


The view of my new freind on a small one as I pull off the one in front






The crowd hit maximum capasity of 4 heads including me.


Sequence of a little cover up section


Abort!


One last look from the dunes as I left......

1 comment:

  1. Another great post! Keep 'em coming!

    ReplyDelete