There's a wave in the Royal National Park that only occasionally works in a very specific swell direction.
The charts were predicting this rare swell event with favorable winds, so I decided to drive to work the long way and check out the sun rise in the National Park and check out the wave.
I could see a few waves coming through from the look out.
But I had to decide if I had enough time time to hike in and out again in time for work.
The conditions were just right so I hit the track, which had recently been closed, and encountered this little fella along the way (spotted wallaby).
It was hard to run past solid empty peelers like this on the beach, but I was keen to get to the point.
As I came around the second bay I could see the sets breaking without another surfer in sight.
The wave has quite a sucky section on the take off.
The take of section breaks in front of a small but vertical cliff.
I was riding my Bob Hurley shaped Rabbit model twin fin that I brought over from California.
Aaron joined me, here he is playing with a small one on the inside.
It can be quite a long wave, breaking from the point all the way to the beach.
A couple of other guys made the hike but were spread out along the length of the wave.
A nice long clean one.
Still a long way to the beach
There was the chance to get a little cover on the inside bowl
Plenty of empty ones
The view down the wave and up the beach into the valley can be breath taking
Last one to the beach.
Time for work.
such a good wave! love the takoff and racy section on the inside with the green sea grass. Looks like you scored!ReplyDelete
I wish I could be as motivated and proactive as you are. You're blog inspires me so often and makes me miss Sydney with each new story. I've been hand planing in 3ft storm slop for a week now!!!