NPJ is a hero of mine. Unbelievable surfer, shaper, musician and artist. I have seen him backhand tube ridding Kirra right past me better than other human while I coped a beating with half a broken board. He is part of the new innovation movement of surfers and shapers who are pushing the boundaries of modern design. I met him last night and we discussed his 2 x 1 fin 'widow maker' set up with a large centre fin. Check what he's been up to at www.theswiftmovement.com
Neil is my hero as well!
ReplyDeleteI so want one of his "Fantasy" shapes
yet in the 6'6" range and as a 5 fin Bonzer.
Not a better surfer i can think of that projects a mood like him.
definately not my hero.
ReplyDeleteabout the same time warm jets comment was being posted he was blatantly snaking me and pushing me off a wave behind the rocks at snapper telling me to "fuck off" because i was on his inside and had been waiting for a wave longer than he had and because i choose to ride a longer board than he does.
im 17 years old and love to watch the revolution of surfing more than anyone, but this guy puts me off retro surfing.
i dont care how much of a hero this guy may be to some people, but hes not one of mine.
i bought one of NPJ's board in Noosa and honestly it has changed my opinion on surfing in general , i'm getting more waves and i do more simple stuff and i'm having more fun than before . I'm french but was born in south-korea . i know how to surf (i grew up near Hossegor ) and i came in Australia 4 years ago ,i live in Byron Bay ; in the beginning if someone see me in a nice looking wave he would drop me in and tell me to "fuck off (still happen sometime) and go back to Japan ", i've never been in Japan . i used to get so frustrated but now i just smile and go back to the line up .
ReplyDelete"retro surfing" doe not make much sense to me , surfing different board like Neal does interest me much more than the classic 3 fins thruster .
Thanks to Neal to open my eyes .
@17 years why be a longboarder?
ReplyDeletesure it's yer right but jeez!
no fun.
i'm betting mo to the story than your leading on?
fitzroy-boy may be a learner surfer, so why diss and put him off the sport? nothing makes surfers look more like precious wooses than bitchy remarks like that.
ReplyDelete